Today we visted Bethlehem for the first time. If it was a small backwater town in the time of our Lord, it is still that today. It is cut off from Jerusalem by a huge electrified wall of steel and concrete fence. the fence was erected in the name of security but everyone seems to understand it was put up to keep those living in Bethlehem from the job opportunities that lay just beyond the wall in the more prosperous Jerusalem. Nabil tells us that to get through requires special papers that are difficult to get and often involves 4-6 hour waits to pass through the security gates. it was a sad thing to see as there is a great valley that separates Bethlehem from Jerusalem: the Shepherd’s Field. We celebrated Mass in a small cave that just fit the 45 of us on that site, where the Annunciation took place. Luke 2, speaks of them being visited by an angel of the Lord who said, “You have nothing to fear! I come to proclaim good news...” Again, I found reading the gospel on this site of this occurence no less than awesome. It was hard to keep track of my job as Deacon in the liturgy as my mind and heart kept running in circles around each other.
After visiting a small Christian shop in Bethlehem, we went next to the Church of the Nativity, devoted to where Jesus was born in a manger. The thing of it is, all I can ever remember growing up as a kid, and even now as an adult, was a sort of barn looking wood structure filled with animals and hay. It turns out that they were actually in a cave. The main opening area of the cave would have been for dwelling and cooking with plenty of access to light from outside and fresh air. This was also the area in which an Inn would have been placed for those needing shelter as they travelled. The more interior of the cave was for livestock. When Mary and Joseph arrived in Bethlehem to report for the census, there was no room at the Inn, which is why they proceeded to the rear of the cave where the animals would have been kept. We all got to actually visit and touch the place of his birth, which is in a deep cave, hidden about 30’ below the main altar in the Church of the Nativity. Let me tell you that standing in this most holy of places really gets you. You come to realize how special a place this really is, set apart from all modernity, only being lit by candles. it took my breath away and made my mind do somersaults with my heart in tow. Think of it. It’s simply amazing to be a witness to that which I’d required faith to believe before our visit. We sang Silent Night with Fr. Charlie leading us. The Germans and others who were also there joined in. I can remember just three years ago, visiting the little church in Germany where that song was written, and how special it was to sing it there. And now to be singing Slient Night while staring at the back of the cave where the Holy Family came to be that night so long ago. Whew...
Under the Catholic side of the Church in their caves, we found small areas with altars set aside to honor St. Jerome who brought us the Vulgate Bible as well as the “Holy Innocents” that were killed when XXX was trying to execute all children up to two years old in an attempt to kill Jesus, thiniking that this would once and for all quash the Christian “cult.” In staring down into that cave, my heart was heavy for all children who have died through the violence of many wars and by all un-natural means.
Our last stop today was the visit the birthplace of John the Baptist as well as the site of the Visitation. Luke 1: 39 says Mary set out in haste for the hill country... and greeted Elizabeth.” They weren’t kidding! It was a mighty hill even though we only walked up the last 1/4 mile of the journey. While it was steep, it was worth the wait. The Franciscans are marvelous caretakers of all of these holy sites in Jerusalem and Bethlehem. We found the site where there is still a well where John the Baptist was born, and then the Church of the Visitation which commemorates Mary’s meeting with Elizabeth to annoucne the good news. We prayed the Magnificat together in the place where Elizabeth’s words were first spoken. “My sould proclaims the greatness of the Lord...”
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